ALHAMBRA, GRANADA
“Thou dost weep like a woman for what thou couldst not defend as a man,” spat out the mother of Boabdil, the last Moorish leader in Spain. It was the 2nd of January 1492 and both were leaving the gorgeous Alhambra Palace in the city of Granada, now in the hands of the Spanish Reyes Catolicos (Ferdinand and Isabella). The last scene of the Reconquista was being played out and finally, after an erratic 800 year campaign, the Spanish controlled their country and the Moor’s rule in Spain had ceased.
Of course, you can only wince when reading the cutting words of Boabdil’s mother! However, visit the Alhambra in Granada and you can see why she was so upset, as her son was abandoning one of the most beautiful palaces in the world – somewhere so entrancing and lovely that it alone justifies a visit to Spain.
Mind you, there is more to see in the city of Granada then just the Alhambra. The Albaicín area of the city is a World Heritage Site (notable for its wonderful Moorish architecture) and the city of Granada has a number of other glorious places to visit including: the Generalife (the gardens to the Alhambra), the Sacromonte (the gypsy area of the city on Valparaiso hill), the Royal Chapel (where the Reyes Catolicos were buried), the cathedral (a terrific Renaissance church) and the Charterhouse (one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Spain).
Meanwhile, Granada has a unique atmosphere. You cannot help but feel that you are in Moorish Spain despite the complete expulsion of the Moors in Spain occurring in 1501, when they were given the brutal ‘choice’ to either convert to Christianity – or, which most did, leave Spain altogether. That may have been many years ago but you can ‘feel’ the presence of the Moors and sense the massive influence that they still have over Granada. Wind your way through the Albaicín area of the city or amble around the Generalife and you step back into a way of life completely foreign to Northern Europe and yet somehow utterly seductive…
GRANADA SPAIN
Incidentally, the emblem of Granada is a pomegranate which is called a granada in Spanish. Famously, this was also the emblem of Queen Catherine of Aragon, first wife of Henry VIII of England. She was one of the daughters of Ferdinand and Isabella (the Reyes Catolicos) and spent part of her youth in Granada and, of course, within the luxury of the Alhambra before going to the far more primitive surroundings of damp, cold and inhospitable 16th Century England. Doubtless this transition must have been a tremendous shock let alone the challenge of keeping her head – when all about her were losing theirs!
The tribulations of pomegranates and Catherine of Aragon aside, you do not need to go to the city of Granada just to experience the culture of Spain. Granada is at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, which are the second highest mountains in Europe and snow capped throughout most years. Here lies the highest mountain in Spain, Mulhacén 3,478 m (11,413′), with fine skiing, walking and cycling throughout the area. Exceptionally, the Sierra Nevada boasts the most southerly ski station in Europe.
Certainly, one of the exceptional aspects to Granada is the fact that, you can drive within an hour to the coast (perhaps having been walking in the snow capped high mountains) and then be swimming or diving in the Mediterranean (the Costa Tropical). Alternatively, you can travel around the Province of Granada and enjoy the famous Alpujarras (delightful snow white houses within intimate villages) and the spectacular landscape with its vast rolling fields. Catch these at the right time of the year and you will be treated to a breathtaking landscape of varied colours from gold, where extensive cereal crops lie, to the pale green of olive groves and the reds of craggy rock – all under a perfect azure sky. If the light is right this can be an awesome landscape of haunting beauty…
A further interesting area to go to lies around Guadix. This is famous for its cave houses which are still in extensive use. Made from hollowing out the surrounding rock, these houses around Guadix are now often fully modernized and you can stay in some which have been converted into Casas Rurarales. Originally, these cave houses in Guadix were built (long ago!) so that the inhabitants of the area could escape the searing heat of summer. This was clearly successful as the cave houses around Guadix evidently provide a constant temperature of around 19 degrees – very welcome when the outside temperature reaches the high thirties and more.
ALHAMBRA, ARCHITECTUAL PERFECTION
Certainly, Granada can be hot in summer – just as it can be surprisingly chilly in winter. This is because of the height of Granada (some 650 m). However, the hottest times can be when the Scirocco wind blows off the Sahara in North Africa. When this occurs the temperature can rise rapidly with a strong and searing dry wind that can last between half a day to several days. This can be insufferably hot and brings with it a fine red dust which covers everything!
You should also appreciate that the Spanish you hear in Granada may be unlike any that you have heard elsewhere in central and northern Spain! Andalusian Spanish is very difficult to understand, is heavily accented, many words are foreshortened and may initially confound you…
Finally, I suspect that however forlorn he was Boabdil had somewhere to stay in Granada when he left the Alhambra. After all, as the 22nd (and last) Nasrid ruler of Granada he must have had some resources and influence left.
However, if you wish to go to Granada then be careful to book ahead if you are set to arrive during the holiday season in Spain and check out Hotels in Spain. The Alhambra alone is a massive tourist ‘draw’ and accommodation in Granada can sometimes get fully booked up, leaving you nowhere to stay. So, to avoid your partner being as sharp tongued as Boabdil’s mother – plan well ahead…
Nick Snelling – Culture Spain
FURTHER RELEVANT ARTICLES
Big Bang – the birth of Modern Spain - the extraordinary story of Spain’s explosive rise to become the most powerful nation in Europe after the defeat of the Moors
What did the Moors do for us? - The Moors incredible (and largely forgotten!) contributions to Europe
The Alhambra and the Moors in Spain - a ‘must-see’ palace of world importance
Granada - a summary
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