PLAZA ESPAÑA SEVILLE (Courtesy of Lobilo Wikipedia)
If you are looking for a quick break or a base for an extended trip around Andalusia you would be wise to head directly for Seville and do not pass Go! As the capital of Andalusia, there is much to admire; culture, food and dance set against a stunning backdrop of ornate and stylish architecture.
Set on the banks of the Guadalquivir, it is hard not to be struck by the beauty of Sevilla. The Moorish influence is immediately obvious and the intricate details of the geometrical designs make for some stunning photographs.
The architecture, known as Mudéjar, is an interesting combination of Islamic, Gothic and Romanesque styles and orange trees flourish around the streets near the cathedral – which is the main hub of the city. Indeed, this huge behemoth dominates Seville, not surprisingly as it is the biggest Gothic cathedral in the world and lavishly decorated.
Make sure to climb the ramps to the top of the Giralda for its staggering view across the city. It is over 100 metres high and was originally a minaret, one of three remaining Almohad minarets in the world. The Cathedral, truly impressive not only in size but also in style, is rich in gold, paintings and sculpture, and boasts relics of saints, as well as fine architectural details. If that’s not enough, it holds the impressive tomb of Christopher Columbus.
BARRIO SANTA CRUZ
Heading up the Calle Mateos Gago, you will enter the twisty turns of the Barrio Santa Cruz. With its narrow streets it is a bit of a labyrinth at first but well worth making the effort to navigate. This is the old Juderia, or Jewish area of Seville and beauty abounds in this district, not only the ubiquitous tapas bars and restaurants, but also workshops selling icons, pretty serene courtyards, fountains and gardens. It is a delight to wander through especially as you discover your own little gems; fine food and live music are often the’ order of the day’!
ALCAZAR
My favourite place has to be the nearby Alcázar in Seville, a Royal palace with lush gardens and romantic patios. It is the official residence of the King, Juan Carlos, and is one of the best examples of Mudéjar architecture in Seville. It is a tranquil place to spend a few hours with plenty of fountains and cool shady corners, if you are seeking some respite from the heat. Inside, you will not be disappointed with the architecture, sublime gardens and water features.
PARQUE AND PLAZA DE ESPANA
Seville is lucky to boast a huge green space in the Parque de María Luisa, a park full of palms trees and interesting nooks and crannies within which you may even chance upon a peacock or two. I’ve read recently that the park is not looking its best and is in need of some improvements.
Originally built for the Expo of 1929 the nearby Plaza de Espana was the centrepiece of the Expo 1929 and is a mixture of Art Deco and Mudejar styles. It is shaped in a semi-circle and decorated with handmade ceramic tiles; each alcove representing a province of Spain and depicting the industry of that region.
Some of the original buildings are today used as museums. The renowned Archaeological Museum is sited here and the old tobacco factory, now the University, was the location for Bizet’s Carmen. The stylish Seville Fair is right next door although currently closed for renovations. It was commissioned by the King of Spain to be the most luxurious hotel in Europe – and it is certainly impressive.
FERIA
April is the most popular time to visit Seville, due to the popularity of the Easter parades and also the Feria de Abril, the week-long annual fair in Seville which happens 2 weeks after Semana Santa. The Seville Fair is when everyone who’s anyone dresses in colourful gypsy attire and rides on horseback down by the Seville fair ground. Dotted around the Seville fairground are casetas where the challenging task of eating, drinking and generally being very merry takes place every day of the festival!
Meanwhile, the Easter parades are a must-see with the drama and theatricality of the religious scenes impressive to witness. The hermandades and cofradias (religious brotherhoods) make daily processions lasting hours and hours during Holy Week, weaving their way around the city dressed in penitential robes and carrying religious icons. The atmosphere is charged with emotion.
METROPOL PARASOL
A more recent attraction to the Seville skyline is the striking Metropol Parasol which is a controversial project not least because of its enormous expense (estimated to be €120 million!). It is a large wooden structure, designed by German architect Jurgen Mayer-Hermann, consisting of four layers. The Antiquarium makes up the bottom layer and this is an archaeological museum displaying Roman ruins discovered whilst digging out a car park. The other levels contain a farmers market with shops and restaurant with panoramic views of the city and a space for concerts.
METROPOL PARASOL (Courtesy of Frufaro Wilipedia)
From photos the Metropol Parasol in Seville resembles a giant waffle but is claimed to be the world’s largest wooden structure. Designed to reinvigorate a quieter part of Seville, it links the old quarter to the newer parts. The architect was apparently inspired by the vaults of the cathedral.
On a practical level the Metropol Parasol creates shaded areas and walkways intended to beat the ferocious summer heat of Seville. Love it or hate it – I definitely want to visit it, next time I am there. Nicknamed the mushrooms by locals it’s the newest attraction for visitors and offers a splendid view of the city – whilst being the world’s biggest building held together by glue!
SHOPPING
Calle Sierpes and Calle Tetuan house the most interesting shops in town, a rainbow of colours with their many artisan shops selling everything from flamenco dresses and fans to mouth-watering pastries. Some of the buildings are tiled and it’s worth looking out for the one that housed Cervantes when he was imprisoned here; allegedly it is where he came up with the idea for Don Quijote, so it may be a place to seek inspiration!
EXPO 92 Seville
In the years running up to 1992 when the Expo was presented, Seville underwent a huge transformation, mainly in the infrastructure needed to serve the crowds of visitors. Many bridges were built, 215 hectares on the Isla de Cartuja were taken over and over 100 international pavilions were constructed. The Expo 92 at Seville covered such a vast area that, at the time, it was difficult to see everything, though memorable parts included the British pavilion with its wall of water out front and the Hungarian display which had a see-through floor and a giant tree inside, where you could walk across its roots. The Expo grounds have since been converted into a theme park called Isla Magica.
WORLD HERITAGE SITES
Seville boasts no less than 3 world heritage sites: the Archivo General de Indios, the Cathedral in Seville and Giralda – as well as the Alcazar. The Alcazar in Seville, of course, represents the epitome of Golden Age Spain when Spain discovered the New World and established its trade links with the Indies.
ENTERTAINMENT
As Seville is the flamenco capital of the world, it won’t be difficult to find a show!. Indeed, there are numerous bars and professional shows (Tablaos) and, if you feel passionate about dancing Sevillans, there are dance schools to be found too. Be sure to check out the Flamenco Dance Museum (Museo del Baile Flamenco), located at Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos 3.
The beauty of Seville is definitely one of discovery and the delight of veering off the beaten track to discover the many places not on your guide book’s top ten list. It is the unexpected discoveries that can delight the heart and make your stay a memorable one.
Seville is an easy place to walk around as the centre is quite compact. Certainly, it is a ‘walkers’ city and rewards walkers as it is then that you can stumble across a gem of a shop or a pretty square, have a coffee and relax, and watch the beautiful people passing by…
Finally, how can you resist Seville having read this lovely poem from Mercedes de Velilla:
¡Sevilla! suelo fecundo
lleno de luz y grandeza,
¿qué diré de tu belleza,
que ya no haya dicho el mundo?
Louise Mee – Culture Spain
RELEVANT INFORMATION ABOUT SEVILLE