Nov 202011
 
Life in northern Spain

FROM DESERTED GALICIAN BEACHES...

Why go to the north of Spain?

Well, not for the weather – but then life in northern Spain still has a great deal to offer!

In fact, the perception of poor weather is probably a key reason few British expats set themselves up for life in the north of Spain, particularly along the coast in the regions of Cantabria, Asturias, Galicia and the Basque Country.  Unfortunately this area has a climate that is quite comparable to that of the UK – think drizzling rain, strong winds, cooler temperatures and an unreliable summer.

As an Australian, good weather holds less of a novelty for me and I am quite happy to brave a little rain and get some use out of my newly purchased winter coat.  However, I can see how, for those who have spent most of their summers shivering and blue on the beach, battling against the wind to obtain some form of tan, might go for something a little warmer!

For those who brave the unreliable weather, however, life the north of Spain is notable for being diverse and spectacular.  The coastline offers a seemingly endless variety of beaches, ranging from the rugged, barren Coste del Morte in North West Galicia (possibly the only place in Spain where you can find yourself alone on the beach in summer), to the spectacular curved city beaches of San Sebastian, where hundreds of brightly clad tourists battle to claim space for their towel.

Living in northern Spain

...TO SOMETHING A LITTLE MORE POPULATED!

Indeed, living on the northern coast of Spain offers you not only spectacular beaches with fantastic surf, but also impressive mountain ranges such as the Picos de Europa, a haven for those who enjoy hiking, climbing , canoeing or simply admiring fantastic views and getting a taste of rural Spanish life.  Cantabria is also the home to a small ski resort giving keen boarders the chance to surf in the morning and snow board in the afternoon, an opportunity that is not often seen in Spain or, in fact, anywhere in the world.  Cantabria also features impressive caves, demonstrating some of the earliest human art work in Europe.

The food also varies hugely from region to region, as Spanish expats will have noticed throughout Spain.  However, the common factor throughout the north of Spain is excellent, fresh seafood available along the majority of the coastline.  Each region is understandably proud of their local dish, ranging from tender Pulpo Gallego (Octopus with paprika, olive oil and salt) in Galicia, Fabada Asturiana ( a hearty stew of beans , chorizo, black pudding and pork), Rabas (fried cuttlefish or calamari) in Cantabria, to the eye popping array of pinxtos  and French inspired pastries in the Basque country.  Not to mention the huge number of Michelin starred offerings also to be found in the Basque country and the increasing number of high end establishments popping up in the other regions of northern Spain that merit a visit.  You can wash all this down with some stand out wines, most notably from the Basque Rioja region and the light Albarino from Gallicia.

Life in the north of Spain also offers a striking contrast between small rural villages, showcasing traditional Spanish life, large industrial cities such as Bilbao and tourist havens such as San Sebastian. It is possible to be surrounded by foreigners one day and the next to be completely immersed in Spanish culture in a small village an hour’s drive from the main cities.

Unfortunately, while the countryside and coast is spectacular, the architecture in this part of the world does not always follow suit and ‘feoism’ (the Spanish description of the ugly Franco era architecture in this area), is in full swing. Many a picturesque coastal village has been spoiled in the north of Spain by a large factory or the addition of ugly, brown blocks of flats.  There are still many villages that have escaped this fate however, so do not be put off on the drive by the large concrete eyesores that dot the motorway – and hunt out the pristine old towns of villages such as Comillas or Potes.

In short, living on the northern coast of Spain offers something for everyone, whether you are a city slicker or more into the natural side of things.  In bustling metropolises and tiny villages totally away from civilisation you can enjoy a fantastic range of food, from hearty to Michelin starred and some world renowned wines to go with it.  So drag out your best waterproof and risk the weather to experience a different side of Spain!

Note:  As I write this it is the middle of November, the sun is shining and it’s 22 degrees in Santander – so don’t let inclement weather reports put you off living in northern Spain or a trip up here!

Naomi Tupper – Culture Spain

Naomi Tupper is a freelance journalist, English language teacher and specialist on northern Spain with a particular interest in the food and wines of Spain.  Naomi‘s Blog can be seen at: scramtucker.wordpress.com  


  One Response to “Life in the north of Spain versus life in the south of Spain”

  1. San Sebastian so much more beautiful off season. A small Paris. Well, almost. And,oh those tapas.