A BEACH AT PLAYA BLANCA, LANZAROTE
The Canaries have long been associated with package tourism. But whilst some of the larger islands such as Gran Canaria and Tenerife bear the scars of over development Lanzarote, located just 80 miles off the coast of Africa, has managed to retain much of its original identity intact. Thanks largely to the enormous influence exerted by a famous local artist called César Manrique. Who fought to ensure that his birthplace didn’t become buried beneath a sea of hotels and apartment complexes.
Much as in the rest of Spain, tourism first took off on Lanzarote in the late 1960´s and early 1970´s – as General Franco opened the country up in order to secure much needed foreign currency. At this time Manrique was living and exhibiting his abstract art in New York, rubbing shoulders with Andy Warhol and the Factory crowd and enjoying the sponsorship of the wealthy, art loving Rockefeller clan.
As the first package holiday makers began to arrive though, Manrique returned to Lanzarote, determined to ensure that the evolution of tourism would not damage the island´s amazing volcanic scenery (created by enormous eruptions during the 18th and 19th centuries) and many natural wonders, such as the Green Lagoon at El Golfo and the Valley of 1000 Palms.
Thanks to his many friends in high places Manrique was able to counsel an alternative to the rampant development taking place at that time along the Costas in mainland Spain and focused on highlighting the importance of working in tandem with Lanzarote´s raw, natural beauty to create a truly unique holiday destination instead. As a result there are no high rise buildings or advertising hoardings on the island today whatsoever – these were outlawed as a direct result of Manrique´s intervention, whilst the three main holiday resorts are all carefully confined along the south-eastern shoreline. Leaving Lanzarote much as nature intended.
Manrique was pragmatic enough to realise that Lanzarote couldn’t continue to survive on just fishing and agriculture alone though – and as a result he welcomed controlled tourism. Even creating the most amazing visitor attractions which serve as shining alternatives to the water parks and golf courses thrown up elsewhere in Spain at this time.
His first major project was the transformation of a collapsed lava tunnel in the north of the island into the Jameos del Agua, initially conceived as a nightclub and concert auditorium with the most amazing sea fed lagoon, tropical gardens and bright white swimming pool, which is still reputedly reserved for the sole use of the King of Spain!
The Jameos del Agua really helped to put Lanzarote on the tourist map in the late 1960´s, garnering plaudits around the world in design magazines and attracting the rich and famous to the island, such as Peter Sellers, Omar Sharif and Rita Heyworth. With the latter declaring the Jameos to be the 8th Wonder of the World.
Manrique went on to create a further six similar sites around the island, which remain the most popular attractions on Lanzarote to this day. Whilst also creating his amazing home and studio in Tahiche, now the César Manrique Foundation, a stunning piece of architecture built over five volcanic bubbles that never fail to blow visitors away.
Written Nick Ball for who is the editor of Lanzarote Guidebook, the in-depth information guide to Lanzarote.