THE BEAUTIFUL ALHAMBRA

It’s been a week of ups and downs for GBP/EUR exchange rate!

Each day has bought news that has set the rate diving and climbing, swinging between 1.19 and 1.20. Of course, if you’re someone that doesn’t pay much attention to currency exchange rates, it might look like not much has happened! But in fact, these wild swings reflect market nervousness at events in Europe that could determine the fate of the continent.

For instance, the euro has gained and lost regarding the EU summit that began last week. Therein the members of the European Union (excepting, it must be noted, the UK and Czech Republic) signed a fiscal union, binding these nations in financial matters. From here on the nations of Europe must balance their budgets, and those that fail can have penalties imposed on them by the European Court of Justice. The fiscal union is an attempt to prevent a debt crisis ever emerging again.

Of course, in the immediate aftermath, this seemed a triumph. Europe had succeeded in drawing a proposal and putting it in place in less than two months! Timely action at last! But before long, politicians, including Italian premier Mario Monti, were playing down this union. He called it, “an important distraction.” This reflects the fact that, ultimately, it does nothing to end the present crisis. Hence jubilation came to a quick close.

It is a similar tale regarding Greece. Every day this week headlines have exclaimed that officials are but hours away from signing a crucial deal, cutting the Greek debt burden. This follows eight months of negotiations, in which officials have pleaded and pleaded with bondholders to take a voluntary loss. But it was happening at last! And just days before Greece was set to default!

But last night, it emerged that Greece had left the negotiating table. This follows demands from its creditors that it introduce even more public spending cuts. Given that Greece is in the throes of recession, you can imagine this didn’t go down well! So, prompting a euro slide once more.

So the pound to euro exchange rate has been capricious.

Looking ahead, there is no reason to say that this volatility shouldn’t continue. The future of Europe continues to hang in the balance, prompting investors to pick up and drop the common currency like a hot potato.

 Peter Lavelle (03.02.2012) – Foreign currency exchange specialist at Pure FX

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AN ECCENTRIC VIEW OF SPAIN

I could not resist putting up these two wonderful ‘maps’ of Spain and Europe, as seen from the ‘imaginary’ eyes of the Spanish – although whether done by someone Spanish or not I do not know.  They have just been sent to me by my son, who spotted them on Mapping Stereotypes.  They are, of course, probably totally politically incorrect – however, as a Briton and someone from the land of the ‘vomiting tourists,’ I can only see the funny side!  I hope you can too…

IS THIS HOW SPAIN SEES EUROPE?

Incidentally, if you are Spanish then do give me your thoughts – is there a grain of truth to the maps!

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

CULLERA BEACH ON A JANUARY DAY

It has just been announced that unemployment in Spain has reached 5.4 million people, amounting to an unemployment rate in Spain of 22.9% – some 400,000 people more than during the third quarter of 2011.  Meanwhile, 48.6% of Spain’s 16-24 year olds have no work, creating a living tragedy and a ‘lost’ generation.

Can anyone be surprised by this horrendous statistic?

Frankly, no.

In fact, expect more to come – whatever other pundits are pronouncing, with 2012 set to be a disaster for anyone of working age in Spain.

There has been much talk about Spain’s problems, which often cloud the most serious and profound structural problem facing any Spanish economic recovery.  This, in short, is that the country (since 2008) has lost something like 30% of its GDP.  Worst of all, the 30% is unlikely to be regained in its old form for a generation or longer.

I am, of course, talking about the Spanish construction industry, which lies in ruins.

At the height of the boom, including all ancillary industries and wealth creation, the construction industry in Spain probably (no-one knows) accounted for 30% or more of Spain’s GDP.  This means that Spain, at best, is functioning on 70% of its 2008 economy – with the ‘30%’ loss of GDP almost mirroring the unemployment figures.  These are undoubtedly higher than those claimed by the Spanish government and may, in reality, be around the 30% mark.

It is no secret that the Spanish economy may never see its construction industry return to its previous importance nor that it may take a generation for any meaningful construction in Spain to impact upon the economy.

So, the ‘structural’ problem facing Spain revolves around how to create some new industry (or industries) that will replace the ‘30%’ ‘black hole’ caused by the disappearance of the Spanish construction industry.  This will not be easy, not least because construction was such a massively labour intensive industry with a direct effect upon numerous other businesses.

Of course, manufacturing is no answer – because it is virtually impossible to compete with Asia and modern manufacturing is largely robotic and no longer a high employment industry.  The conundrum, therefore, facing the new Spanish government of Mariano Rajoy is: what can Spain develop to replace the construction industry (and fast!)?

I have no idea – and doubt that the occasionally mentioned aim of developing hi-tech and clean industries in Spain is likely to succeed, despite the fact that Spain now has a highly educated population (along with the rest of Europe!).

One problem for Spain regarding making use of its educated population lies in the fact that no effort has been made over the past few years to build an economy that could absorb educated people.  Indeed, at the moment, Spain has an ‘over-qualification’ problem in that 31% of all working Spaniards (according to a 2008 survey) are in jobs below their qualifications.

So, although, in principle, Spain could offer a North European skill set it has little base from which to do so.  Even if that is developed, Spain will be competing directly with scarily efficient nations (by comparison) such as Germany, Denmark, the UK and so on and, to succeed, will require a significant cultural change to work and work practices.

In reality, Spain is (as many Spaniards admit) a poor country, which has had a long, artificial boom fuelled by cheap money and misplaced sentiment – before an all too predictable crash.  This has left Spain appallingly debt laden and with a very weak economy centred largely on agriculture and tourism. Whilst the latter is very successful (and probably always will be) its very nature means that it is seasonal and not an industry that provides full time employment.  Meanwhile, agriculture has seen little investment since the Spanish construction boom and is battling against the cheaper products of Third World countries.

As to the future?

Well, it is hard to imagine unemployment in Spain reducing significantly for a long time.  To make up a lost ‘30%’ of a country’s GDP is a daunting task and it is doubtful whether anyone really has any idea how to do this.  In the meantime, tax revenues will be low and general spending greatly reduced, whilst the brightest, most dynamic and best qualified Spaniards leave Spain to gain work abroad.  This will leave a despairing unskilled workforce (many being recent immigrants drawn to the country by the construction boom) and deprive the country of the very people it  needs most.

Certainly, many Spaniards are now realising that there is no quick-fix solution to Spain’s problems and that the Spanish economy may take a generation to recover.  This, of course, is a long time and bodes ill for the country – unless it can find a quick way to replace the construction industry with something(s) that will provide, more or less, the same level of employment and income as the construction industry during the halcyon boom years.

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

PADDLE4HEROES, RAISING MONEY THROUGH KAYAKING - FOR HELP FOR HEROES AND FAMILIES OF THE FALLEN

On the 31^st May this year, nine men from Paddle4Heroes are going to paddle from Gibraltar to Marbella in Spain by kayak to raise funds for Help for Heroes and a new charity called Families of The Fallen.  Both of these charities should touch the heart of anyone British, as they are at the forefront of helping servicemen and women recover from the trauma of war.

Of the nine paddlers (aged between 20 – 58!), six are ex-servicemen (including one from my own regiment) and all live on the Costa del Sol.  Several have experienced active service and all know the devastation that war can bring to everyone involved.

Indeed, the consequences of active service can be long lasting, not just for servicemen and women but also for their immediate families.  Both parties often need significant help readjusting to normal life (whether the trauma is psychological or physical) and that is where charities like Help for Heroes and Families of The Fallen come into their own.

Needless to say, Britain seems to have been continually at war for years now, with the Iraq wars and Afghanistan being notable.  However, our military forces also continually operate in many other areas including often as unsung UN peacekeepers, which can often involve significant risks – and injury.

TRAINING, TRAINING AND...MORE TRAINING!

In fact, whilst deaths in battle always make the news, injuries rarely do and they, of course, far outnumber deaths, despite often being utterly life changing for those hurt.  Indeed, I hate to think how many British servicemen and women have sustained terrible injuries over the past twenty years – with their injuries never having made the news or having been ‘hidden’ deep within governmental statistics.   Certainly, many more servicemen and women (and their families) need help than most of us realise…

Needless to say, the point of the canoe trip by Paddle4Heroes from Gibraltar to Marbella (90 km) on the 31^st May is to raise funds for Help for Heroes and Families of the Fallen.  It is your money that keeps these charities going and your money that directly helps our servicemen and women in their time of greatest need.

So, please make an effort to spare some money for Paddle4Heroes.  What they are doing deserves your support and it would be great to think that any of you Britons, with any connection at all to Spain, could help to make the Paddle4Heroes event an outstanding fund raising success – that does justice to any Briton living or holidaying in Spain!

If you want to know more or wish to contribute to Paddle4Heroes then please see the Paddle4Heroes Facebook page.

TOUGH TRAINING BUT WORTH IT FOR A GREAT CAUSE

Please do give Paddle4Heroes some Likes on their Facebook page and  spread the ‘word’ about what they are doing (your Facebook/Twitter/Google+/Blog etc.).  This is a commendable cause and I would urge any Briton to help Paddle4Heroes.  Your enthusiasm and support is needed by the team – with every donation (however small) very much appreciated.

Finally, if you want to get hold of Paddle4Heroes directly then you can e-mail them at: paddle4heroes@hotmail.com

 Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

WILL THE EURO STAND FIRM OR DEGENERATE UNDER INCREASING PRESSURE

Is the euro bouncing back – or set to meltdown?

In the past fortnight the pound and US dollar hit 12 month highs against the euro, reaching 1.21 and 0.79 respectively. Since then the euro has clawed back ground.

But is this the start of euro resurgence, or a last gasp – preceding terminal decline?

Watching the crisis in Europe play out these past months has been like seeing a man pitted against the lions in the Coliseum.

The poor fellow dances about for dear life all he can. But each time the lions pounce the spectators (being us, I suppose) launch to their feet, certain he must be gone. Somehow at the last moment, the man sidesteps out of immediate danger. He is alive for now, but more tired and less capable of dodging the next time those claws reach out.

In the meantime, the odds in his favour plummet.

Can the euro dodge the lions?

So it goes for the euro too. Endless talk of credit rating downgrades, government defaults, and inaction among politicians have taken a toll. Investors treat the euro like a Roman sacrifice about to be torn to pieces. In fact, so dire has the situation become, this past fortnight, that the euro hit 12 month lows against its rivals:

GBPEUR: 1.2142

(9.73% sterling gain)

USDEUR: 0.791

(17.46% US dollar gain)

To read the economics pages, you might assume the lions had already made the kill. Since then the euro seems to have dodged those giant teeth, gaining 1.50% against its counterparts. So the question becomes: Is this the last gasp of a currency in its death throes? Or a renewed struggle for life? Let’s examine both cases.

Case for survival

1. The IMF plans to inject $615bn into its reserves. IMF head (and Frenchwoman) Christian Lagarde wants members to contribute a $1tn top-up to its resources. Ostensibly this is to prevent defaults as the global outlook darkens. In fact, it is a thinly veiled ploy to siphon more funds to Europe.

2. European bond yields are dropping. At their most recent bond auctions, French and Spain yields declined to safe levels. This tells us the markets believe these governments are good investments i.e. not about to default.

3. The Eurozone is combining its rescue funds. Europe has two firewalls intended, almost literally, to spring a wall of money around nations that default. These firewalls (the European Financial Stability Facility and European Stability Mechanism) were designed to operate one at a time. But in a sign that politicians now take the crisis seriously, the funds could soon be made to operate in tandem.

Case for not so much survival

1. Greece is at the precipice. For eight months Greece has been negotiating with its investors, trying to convince them to take a voluntary loss. For eight months, the investors have declined. Now, unless Greece can reach an agreement in less than 2 months, it will default.

2. Europe is choking off its own growth. In response to market complaints that Europe has done too little to cut its debt, governments have imposed sweeping public spending cuts. These, though, are choking off growth, pushing Europe into a second recession and, in fact, pushing debts higher.

3. People have had enough. Successive polls have indicated that people in Europe have had enough. Support for the euro project is dwindling, making it nigh on impossible for governments to press ahead with legitimacy. With elections in France and German upcoming, leaders might soon find it impossible to ignore the will of their populations.

Thumbs up?

For me at least then, it seems obvious that the lions will find their mark.

The arguments supporting euro strength are like the final desperate manoeuvres of someone dodging a predator. Those manoeuvres are keeping him alive. But – merely delaying the inevitable.

For further advice on exchange rates and transferring money please feel free to get in touch with me, Peter Lavelle of Pure FX

Peter Lavelle (24.01.2012) – Foreign currency exchange specialist at Pure FX

Pure FX:
Operating in the UK since 2006.
Directly authorised by the Financial Services Authority in the UK no. 504354 for totally secure transfers.
Exchange rates guaranteed to beat your high street bank.
Personal service from a dedicated currency exchange dealer.
No fees and no commission.
Ability to fix the exchange rate to protect you against drops in the market.
Specialist guidance regarding your transfer requirements.
Same day payments available.
Exchange rate alert when your target rate becomes available.

GANDIA'S MAGNIFICENT BEACH STRETCHING AWAY TO THE HORIZON!

Last week I had the pleasure of meeting Channel 4’s A Place in the Sun team (including the lovely Jasmine Harman), who were filming in my area.  They have some house hunters who want to move to the Gandia area, which gave the A Place in the Sun team a reason to come here and their first experience, to the best of my knowledge, of Gandia – which must be one of the best kept secrets on the Spanish coastline.

In fact, one of the oddities of living in Gandia is that, whilst it is well known in Spain, the town is virtually unknown outside the country.  This is despite Gandia being a large coastal town (pop. 80,000) with one of the finest beaches along the Mediterranean (it stretches some 7.5km and is comprised of a wide area of golden sand).  There is also a marina and port and an area of nightclubs and entertainment famous for its vibrancy – throughout Spain.

Meanwhile, immediately inland of Gandia beach are extensive, evergreen citrus groves that lie between dramatic mountains that are perfect for walking, climbing, cycling, bird watching and other outdoor activities.  Indeed, the countryside around Gandia is a delight and is what makes the area so seductive to Spanish holidaymakers and the few foreigners living here.

Bird watching in Spain – the stunning diversity of Valencia          Climbing around Gandia

And when I say the ‘few foreigners living here’ the word ‘few’ hardly does justice to the situation.

Acting as the local expert for A Place in the Sun for their Gandia filming, I checked out how many Britons live in Gandia (the town, the beach, the port area and the lovely Marxuquera valley) – and found that the records show that there are only 316 Britons on the electoral role (the Padron)!

316!

Of course, it is virtually impossible to know how many foreigners come for their summer holidays to Gandia.  However, the numbers are pathetically small and, if you are on Gandia beach in August, then you will probably be just about the only foreigner there, surrounded by Spaniards from Madrid and the interior of Spain.

So, why is Gandia so little known outside of Spain – is there some ‘skeleton in the cupboard’ or a good reason non-Spaniards do not come here?

Well, the truth is that Gandia has remained a ‘secret’ to the world outside Spain because it has never needed to attract foreign tourism.  It has been able to rely upon its popularity with inland Spanish as ‘the’ place to go for their summer holidays in Spain.  Equally, Gandia remains a very popular destination for Spaniards thinking of retiring – the busy, user-friendly, town of Gandia does not suffer the ebb and flow of mass foreign tourism, has its own economy (agriculture and very light industry) and is perfect for permanent living.

The consequence of all of this is that Gandia must be one of the few, perhaps only, coastal towns within Mediterranean Spain which is still properly ‘Spanish’.  It has not been trashed by having to bow to the demands of mass foreign tourism, it has not been anglicised and it has a culture that remains largely untouched by commercial tourism.  This also follows for property surrounding Gandia, which is notable for lacking the huge new estates with hundreds of ‘Design A, B and C houses’ – so common to many parts of coastal Spain.  Around Gandia there are estates but these are small and contain individual and wildly varying properties the majority of which are owned by the Spanish themselves.

Property for sale Gandia area         Accommodation Gandia     Rental accommodation Gandia

Great stuff – and one of the reasons why I have delighted in living in the Gandia area, for the past nine years.  It is also why I was a little dubious about acting as an expert for A Place in the Sun which, with its enormous popularity, will draw attention to Gandia and open up the secret of Gandia to the world (which those of us living here have done our best to keep!).  However, the charms of Jasmine Harman are nothing if not persuasive…

In any event, if you are thinking about your summer holidays in Spain or moving to Spain then you really ought to think of coming to Gandia.

However, be prepared for somewhere different and, importantly, somewhere that is properly Spanish.  So, if you want the Red Lion pub in Spain, buckets and spades, lots of menus in English, identical retirement homes and the Great British Breakfast – then Gandia will definitely not be for you!

Nick Snelling- Culture Spain

RELEVANT INFORMATION ABOUT GANDIA IN SPAIN

Gandia, Valencia Province, Spain

Property for sale Gandia area

Bird watching in Spain – the stunning diversity of Valencia

Climbing around Gandia

Accommodation Gandia

Rental accommodation Gandia

Gandia area in detail

A view of La Drova near Gandia

CORRUPT POLITICIANS IN SPAIN - RIDING ROUGHSHOD OVER EVERYONE

A fascinating article was published by El Pais a few days ago, which should be required reading for anyone living in the Valencian Region (as I do).  It confirms, of course, what most commentators have suspected for years and is a powerful and stinging attack upon politicians within the Valencia Region, albeit from a left of centre newspaper.

However, the fact of the matter is that the Spanish politicians who have controlled the Valencian Region (the three provinces of Castellon, Valencia and Alicante) for years – have been from the PP (‘conservative’) party and not from the discredited PSOE (‘socialist’) party who, incompetently, led the national government of Spain for almost eight years.

And which party now holds national power in Spain? 

You guessed it – the PP party under new Prime Minister Rajoy, who has, within days of taking power, broken pre-election pledges! 

Rather more wisely, despite praising the Valencian PP party and their ex-leader (Francisco Camps) for years, Rajoy has appointed not a single Valencian PP party member out of his 38 ministers.  He is clearly distancing himself from Valencia and its mad and corrupt politicians, who have driven the Valencia Region to the edge of bankruptcy.  Self-serving and stupid they have taken corruption in Spain to a state of the art and certainly bring into question the ‘myth’ that the PP party is the ‘natural’ Spanish political party to choose for sound economic governance.

Truly, it is worth reading the very well translated article below, from El Pais – a sad eye-opener for anyone who has been wondering what has been going on over the past few years and why the Valencian Region is now in such a wretched financial state.

 Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

Valencia’s Delirium

For many decades the Valencia autonomous region was considered to be one of the Spain’s success stories – economically buoyant and always at the forefront of regional development. Indeed, a model regional government to be envied by other communities. Mariano Rajoy, Spain’s new prime minister, announced in 2008 that the Valencia Consell, under Francisco Camps, was the model he wished to emulate in Madrid if he came to power.

Today it is the most indebted region in Spain and the banks that were once proud to show the Valencia regional flag in their advertising are no more. The number of cases of corruption presently in the courts runs into double figures and even the faithful of the Partido Popular have been heard in private referring to it as Spain’s Greece. Practically every institution and official and semi-official organism and entity is up to its ears in debt. ‘If we were a savings bank we would have been taken over by the Bank of Spain’, said one PP leader in the region, adding, ‘but fortunately we are not’.

The most far-reaching corruption case is the Gürtel fraud, now shown to be a calculated plan to channel public money into private pockets with the passive collaboration of high-up officials. It began with the mega-theme park project Terra Mítica in Benidorm, funded mainly by local savings banks CAM and Bancaja. The park cost 377 million euros to build. It now belongs to Aqualandia which took it over for nothing but an agreement to clear the debts of 65 million. In order to carry out the project the Valencia government expropriated 10 million square metres of land, and when the sky started to fall in the first reaction was to get out of bankruptcy by selling off a large part of the land to a real estate developer, Enrique Ortiz, who is currently implicated in the Gürtel and Brugal cases.

Many other projects went the same way as Terra Mítica. Initially they were promoted as being for public benefit but ended up becoming property speculations. Official bank accounts were plundered almost to the point of becoming an institutionalised activity in which the businessmen collaborating with the corrupt and negligent politicians ran little risk of failing to make zillions. A company set up to handle the sewage for Valencia and 16 other municipalities was a complete free-for-all. 28 people are accused, among them all the ex-executives of the company, Emarsa, together with PP officers and numerous suppliers.

The regional president, Francisco Camps, behaved like a ruling monarch as he revelled in his power and newly-acquired riches. He is now in court daily defending himself against corruption charges. When in 2007 Bernie Ecclestone announced that Valencia would be the venue for a new Formula 1 competition, it was on the condition that Camps won the regional elections. At first the government told the public that the new race circuit would not cost taxpayers a penny as funding would be provided by the developers of the local town’s urban redevelopment, but in fact the Consell put up 80 million. The seven races programmed for the circuit would have cost taxpayers 244 million more, to cover payments to Ecclestone, regional TV, and infrastructure.

The disastrous Castellón airport project was another open tap through which money flowed out of official coffers, and as a result of corrupt and downright bad governance Valencia has been left to all intents and purposes without a financial infrastructure. Local banks CAM and Bancaja, once the third and fourth in national ranking, have been taken over or are in forced administration, as is the Banco de Valencia.

Without the crisis and the bursting of the real estate bubble it is possible that the situation could have been kept from becoming a public scandal, but when last year the central government had to pay off a debt of due to Deutsche Bank by the Valencia Community, there was nowhere left to hide, and a feeble attempt to raise funds by trying to place 1,800 million local government bonds was a total fiasco, not helped by Moodys and Fitch rating them as junk bonds. Rajoy has imposed harsh conditions but austerity may not be the complete answer. Creditors fight daily to get paid what they are owed by official entities and the end is not even in sight.

 Translated from an article by El Pais

DO YOU NEED TO SELL YOUR PROPERTY IN THE LA SAFOR/GANDIA AREA?

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Casalasafor have long experience of the La Safor area and have in-coming clients from Northern Europe, as well as Spain itself (both locally and from Madrid).  These are attracted by the newly up-graded and well optimised Casalasafor web site, together with a further Culture Spain property site.  Furthermore, Casalasafor have a close relationship with an international property portal, upon which select properties are also listed.

So, can you lose by listing your property with Casalasafor?

Of course, not – and Casalasafor may just be the agents that do sell your property in the Gandia area and allow you to escape from limbo and move on…

If you have a property and want more information (whether you are Spanish or English speaking) then do contact us!

SOFT CONSTRUCTION WITH BEANS (A PREMONITION OF CIVIL WAR) BY SALVADOR DALI

The Spanish Civil War 1936-39 was a conflict notable for its brutality and for the way it savagely divided Spain.  It resulted, of course, in General Franco’s long dictatorship (which only ended in 1975) and was a defining moment for Spain – the results of which can be felt even now.

However, the Civil War in Spain was also notorious for being incredibly ‘messy’ politically – so much so that understanding what was happening can be extremely difficult.  Everyone, it seems, was fighting everyone, at one time or another, as a bewildering array of political views sought dominance in Spain from extreme anarchists through to communists, socialists, fascists and republicans.  Different areas, different members of families and competing regional interests all collided in a war that was the inevitable, explosive expression of a country that had long been in turmoil.

But what were the precise origins of the Spanish Civil War?

Well, that is something that my friend Rod Younger of Books4Spain explains in one of the most lucid and penetrating articles about the Civil War in Spain that I have read for a long time.  As Rod acknowledges, one of the best reference works on the origins of the Civil War in Spain and its conduct can be found in Anthony Beevor’s classic book ‘The Battle for Spain’ – but for a brief explanation (and ‘taster’) you could do a lot worse than read the article by Rod below.

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

The underlying causes of the Spanish Civil war

As an Anglo Spaniard with over 45 years’ experience of visiting, working and, for the last 10 years, living in Spain, and whose parents were raised in Spain during the Civil War, I am sometimes asked what were the true causes of the Spanish Civil War and often told by foreigners with little knowledge of Spain or its history, how terrible it was that Franco won and how he set Spain back 40 years.

This last point is a moot point and perhaps one that I will return to another day, for now I’d like to summarise the root causes which have been set out superbly by Antony Beevor in the Introduction and opening Chapters of his seminal work – The Battle for Spain.

At the outset, I have to admit that I have never read one serious book about the Spanish Civil War – apart from Homage to Catalonia many, many years ago.  What I do know from my Spanish roots, family history and experience is that the conflict was not as black as white as many people believe and, as Antony Beevor says in his Introduction, “The Spanish Civil War remains one of the few modern conflicts whose history has been written more effectively by the losers than by the winners.” and “Truth was indeed the first casualty of the Spanish Civil War.”

The common perception of at least 80% of the people who ask me about this and who also purport to know about the cause of the Spanish Civil War, state with certainty that Franco over threw a democratically elected Republican government – end of story.

That statement, read as is, is correct.  However, if only it were so simple and clear cut.  Franco’s intervention was not only the results of several years of political infighting, intrigue, machinations, violence, etc. (which Beevor covers admirably) but, equally importantly, the seeds of the conflict were sown over the centuries, not decades or the few turbulent years prior to 17 July 1936.  In fact, the Spanish Civil War was, in my opinion, the inevitable consequence of Spain’s economic and political decline after its Golden Age, although, as Beevor points out “this view contravenes the informal yet important rule of history that nothing is inevitable”.  This decline was, of itself, due to three key factors identified by Beevor, namely:

• Class conflict;
• Authoritarian rule versus libertarian instinct; and
• Central government against regionalist aspirations.

To quote Beevor (which I will do with some frequency!) – “The genesis of these three strains of conflict lay in the way the Reconquista of Spain from the Moors had shaped the social structure of the country and the attitudes of the Castilian conquerors.”

In essence, the monarchy, the aristocracy and, following closely behind, the Church, took possession of Spain – a Spain that had never previously been united (except perhaps under the Romans).  To complete and sustain this “united” Spain money, not food, was required and, as Beevor points out, Merino wool was the cash crop.  So, common land was seized for sheep grazing and agriculture and food production suffered accordingly.  Tending sheep is not labour intensive and the “only alternatives to starvation was the army and, later, the empire.” As a result, Spain’s population is estimated to have fallen from about 14 million in the Middle Ages to a little over 7 million at the end of the eighteenth century.  Here were the seeds of class conflict.

The Church’s role in the Reconquista was vital – initially promoting and often participating in military action, moving to a more political role once the Moors had been expelled. “The army conquered, then the Church integrated the new territories into the Castillian state.” The power of the Church was based on fear and culminated, as we know, in the creation of Inquisition by Isabella.

The Church controlled every aspect of education and promoted Castilian qualities “such as endurance of suffering and equanimity in the face of death.”  It encouraged parsimony, mental and physical, and rejected the papacy because of its corruption.  “The Church provided spiritual justification for the Castilian social structure and was the most authoritarian force in its consolidation.”  Here we find authoritarian rule.

Lastly, centralism against regionalism:  As mentioned above, Spain had never really been united but theReconquista, along with marriages between different royal families, created a centralised government (Monarchy) with the Church effectively in control.  A monarchy which disregarded the local rights and customs of regions or Kingdoms which had previously been independent, for example Catalonia and the Basque country.

“Castile had established a central authority in Spain and built the empire but …. the wars in northern Europe, the fight against the French in Italy and destruction of the Armada..”  presaged the decline of “imperial power, developed in less than two generations.”

In short no lessons were learnt and the Catholic Church’s unbending conservative orthodoxy and disdain for trade “made the Castilian ruling class introverted.”

So we have an increasingly impoverished and marginalised country with limited natural resources being ruled by a highly conservative Catholic Church disconnected from the more liberal and less overtly political church emerging in other parts of Europe and a Castilian Monarchy who saw the rest of Spain and its dwindling empire as a source of funds.

In 1640 the Catalans, who had had considerable autonomy and power in the Mediterranean, along with the Portuguese, rose against Philip IV.  Portugal won her independence but Barcelona, who had acknowledged Louis XIII of France as its king, fell to Philip IV in 1652.

In 1700, after the death of the last Spanish Hasburg the first of many wars of Spanish Succession started and Catalonia sided with England against Louis XIV’s grandson, Philip of Anjou.  The English betrayed Catalonia in the Treaty of Utrecht (gaining Gibraltar and Menorca), the bourbon King Philip V abolished Catalonia’s rights.  The force of the Church was waning and the monarchy resorted to implementing the centralist ideas of his Sun King grandfather “But ruthlessness did not solve the problem; it only stored up trouble for the future.”

Apart from war, the other major factor that held back Spain’s economic development was the Spanish Church’s anti-capitalist, anti-usury, line and the Spanish nobleman’s disdain for commercial enterprise.  In fact the census of 1788 showed that almost 50% of adult males were not involved in any form of productive work, to quote Beevor – “one half of Spain east bit does not work, while the other half works but does not eat.” is a famous proverb which appears to have arisen around this time.

The turbulent times continued in 19^th, starting with the “War of Independence” (known as The Peninsular War by the British), followed by the Carlist Wars and culminating in the disastrous Spanish-American War in 1898 and the loss of Cuba.  Throughout this century liberalism and traditionalism clashed and corruption was rife.  The army acquired a taste for overthrowing governments – between 1814 and 1874 there were 37 attempted coups.

Spain became poorer and poorer and in February 1873 Amadeo of Savoy abdicated and the First Republic was declared.  It only lasted a few months as the army imposed its will and in 1874 Alfonso XII was proclaimed King.  A new constitution returned power to the Church and the landowners and political and economic corruption spread throughout the country from Madrid.

When Alfonso XIII became King in 1902, poverty was so great that half a million Spaniards, out of a population of eighteen and half million, emigrated to the New World in the first decade alone.  Life expectancy was around 35 years, the illiteracy rate averaged 64% and two thirds of Spain’s active population still worked on the land – with huge variations in terms and conditions between the regions.  Hardly an auspicious start to the century.

At the same time, the colonial war in Morocco was extremely unpopular, leading, indirectly, to the Tragic Week uprising in Barcelona in 1909 – culminating in the execution of Francisco Ferrer, founder of the libertarian Modern School, on trumped up charges.

Nevertheless, the repatriation of money from the old empire and the First World War, in which Spain remained neutral, resulted in a mini economic boom and a significant increase in the birth rate – which was to have an impact twenty years later in the 1930s.  The end of the First World War saw an end to the economic boom, unemployment and discontent followed fanning a rise in anarchism and socialism (both of which had been present in parts of Spain – mainly Andalucia and Catalonia, since the last quarter of the 19^th century).  The large overstaffed army remained a major obstacle to any reform and between 1917 and the declaration of the Second Republic in April 1931 (after Primo de Rivera’s disastrous rule) Spain suffered a series of economic and political crises.

The new government inherited an economic mess, both from the massive debts from public spending projects and the collapse of the peseta as well as the world depression brought on by the 1929 Crash (sound familiar??).  The new government introduced or proposed various reforms, including to the army, its relationship with regions like Catalonia, landownership, personal rights of women, freedom of religious worship etc.  reforms leading to regular clashes with the establishment (Church, Army and landowners).

At the same time, there were increasingly violent internal struggles between the various left wing parties themselves, as well as with the Falange, which had been founded in 1933.  As a result, between 1931 and 1936 there were several uprisings, strikes, coup attempts, elections and an increasing polarisation between the various political parties, especially on the left.

The general election of February 1936 led to a very narrow victory by a coalition of left wing parties who then fell to bickering amongst themselves, with the hard left faction urging a Bolshevik revolution.  It was as turbulent a time as any, ultimately, resulting in the military, led by Franco, feeling it necessary to step in and restore order in July of that year – the Spanish Civil War was officially born, but the country had already been effectively as close to civil war as is possible without it being nominated a civil war.

Rod Younger MD of Books4Spain writing about: The Battle for Spain by Anthony Beevor

 RELEVANT ARTICLES ABOUT SPAIN AND THE POLITICS AND CULTURE OF SPAIN

ALL THE KING’S MEN - Politics in Spain and the thrilling story of the death of General Franco, the development of democracy in Spain and the deadly Tejero crisis.

BIG BANG - The birth of modern Spain and the astonishing rise of Spain as it was united and became the greatest power in Europe helped, of course, by its merciless conquistadors.

WHAT DID THE MOORS DO FOR US? – The Moors entered Spain in 711 and left (reluctantly) hundreds of years later. Although they are much reviled now, in fact they contributed an amazing amount to both Spain and Europe.

THE BORGIAS - Few families in the world have been as notorious as the Borgias with Lucrezia Borgia and Caesar Borgia famous worldwide.  Were they really as bad that portrayed?

DO THEY KNOW SOMETHING WE DO NOT?

Yesterday further problems with Iberia flights were announced which will continue the aggravation caused by the recent Iberia pilot’s strike.  Now it is the turn of the ground staff of Iberia, who have voted for an indefinite period of industrial action.

From February 3rd stoppages are likely every Monday and Friday – which is, no doubt, convenient for the staff and will enable them to have long weekends off!  However, this is bad news for the public and will be exacerbated by the Iberia pilots who have called for stoppages on January 25th, 27th and the 30th.  This follows their strike action at the back end of last year and the start of this year.  Worryingly, the CEO of Iberia has said that the ‘situation could become unmanageable…’

Needless to say, disruption to flights to Spain is all the country needs now just as it has been showing excellent tourist figures for 2011.  Spanish holidays are as popular as ever and winter holidays in Spain are an important potential income for the Spanish tourist industry when out of the summer season.  So, any damage to this is unlikely to be looked upon kindly by the industry or, frankly, those many people in Spain who have no jobs at all…

If you are concerned about air strikes in Spain or disruption to flights to Spain then keep an eye on this site and I shall keep you advised as matters develop.  In the meantime, if you find out more than me – then please drop me a note!

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

GANDIA BEACH, EARLY MORNING IN SEPTEMBER

I saw an interesting comment in El Pais recently, which stated that the President of Catalonia, Artur Mas, was justifying significant spending cuts as a way of ‘preventing Madrid from meddling with Catalan finances’.  This would, a colleague said: “blow away our financial autonomy” and “violate the rules of the game set down in the Constitution.”

Yes, indeed!

However, one of the questions that need to be asked at the moment is whether the Autonomous Regions in Spain should really exist – or at least have as much independent power as they do.  I say this in the light of the incredible levels of state bureaucracy that exist in Spain and what appears to be the uncontrollable financial independence of the Autonomous Regions – some of which are clearly in deep financial trouble.

Indeed, recently, the Autonomous Region of Valencia had to turn to the national government of Spain to help out with an overdue payment to the Deutsche Bank.  This was, evidently, the first time the national government of Spain has had to ‘bailout’ a Region, with Valencia (notoriously) one of the most indebted Regions in the country.  Valencia stated that this was just an ‘isolated liquidity problem’ but few people can seriously believe this.

In fact, in the case of the Autonomous Region of Valencia, it appears that the Region by the end of last year had debts of some 2.4 billion Euros, which initiated S&P in December 2011 to downgrade Valencia’s credit rating to BBB (which is just above junk bond status!).

The state system in Spain – an hilarious insight!     Government in Spain – the different levels!

Needless to say, Valencia is now frantically trying to curb spending with the new President of the Valencia Region (Alberto Fabra) announcing cuts of 1 billion Euros which, amongst other things, will mean the drastic reduction of public agencies from 46 to 6.

Of course, what is notable is that the previous President of the Valencia Region (Francisco Camps) stepped down last year because he was embroiled in the Gurtel corruption case – which provides a shocking ‘window’ into how decisions are made by many politicians in Spain and why many decision are often so poor.  All too often, sadly, they are quite simply ‘driven’ by a relentless culture of corruption in Spain.

Meanwhile, it is simply staggering that the Valencia Region has taken so long to make cuts – which have been undertaken so late that there is, undoubtedly, no choice except to make them devastatingly savage.  Indeed, so brutal may the cuts turn out to be that they may actually significantly damage the very fabric of the Valencian Region.

But why were these cuts not made before?

After all, we are now some four years into the economic crisis in Spain and even the tardy and incompetent socialist government under Zapatero (who lost the Spanish national elections in November 2011) was imposing austerity measures a year or more ago.  Clearly, Autonomous Regions like Valencia were not listening to the national government of Spain or simply refused to follow their ‘lead’.  I can only imagine that this will have been replicated by the town halls of Spain (8,137 of them!), which also have an autonomy that anyone in Northern European countries would consider extraordinary.

The Spanish economy – Are the Autonomous Regions of Spain Bankrupt?

The point I am making is that for political reasons, which go back to the death of General Franco (1975) and the Constitution of Spain (1978), the national government of Spain has limited powers over the country as a whole.  This is great, in theory, in allowing decisions and the operation of ‘democracy’ to be devolved to its lowest levels, within a country where many Regions guard their independence from central government ferociously (such as Catalonia or the Basque Country).  However, the result is that the central government of Spain has difficulty in imposing its will, within a country replete with a nightmarish bureaucracy.

Indeed, as I have written before (and excluding the EU), Spain’s decision making apparatus (from top to bottom) includes: the National government based in Madrid, the Regional governments (for each Autonomous Region), the Diputacións (for each province), the Mancomunitat (groups of town halls) and all the individual town halls themselves.  The cost of this absurd structure (albeit driven by the intrinsic culture of Spain) must be incredible – it is unwieldy and is the last thing any country needs in a time when everything needs to be streamlined, ultra efficient and quickly responsive.

Equally (and dangerously!), I have my doubts that the central government in Madrid really ever knows fully what is going on within the state apparatus of Spain – along with most commentators or analysts.  After all, knowing what the Spanish national government’s finances are may be one thing, but those of the Regions, Diputacions and town halls in Spain?  I suspect these ‘conceal’ massive debts that have been long out of the control of Spain’s national government and beyond any logical and controlled governance – let alone accountability …

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

The state system in Spain – an hilarious insight!

Government in Spain – the different levels!

Corruption in Spain – the King’s finances revealed

Corruption in Spain – still a problem

2011, a summary and predictions for 2012

The Spanish economy and debt in Spain – the town halls are in trouble

The Spanish economy – how bankrupt is Spain

The Spanish economy – Are the Autonomous Regions of Spain Bankrupt?

THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN MADRID IS WITHIN THE MAGNIFICENT TORRE ESPACIO

The British Embassy in Madrid is located within one of the highest skyscrapers in Spain and can be found/contacted as below:

Torre Espacio, Paseo de la Castellana 259,  28046 Madrid, Spain

Tel no. 917 146 300  Fax 917 146 301

Website: http://ukinspain.fco.gov.uk/en/

Opening hours: Monday to Friday 08:30 – 17:00

The Ambassador is currently Giles Paxman – a European affairs specialist.

The British Embassy in Madrid is not (curiously) located in the centre of Madrid, having moved to its current location in 2009.  This is in the north of Madrid at the Cuatro Torres Business Area in the district of Borough which, if you are driving, is off the M30 and at the far northern end of the famous Paseo de la Castellana, which is an arterial road running straight through Madrid.

The closest metro station is Begoña, which is near to the Universitario La Paz and within very easy walking distance of the British embassy.  Meanwhile there are almost unlimited buses running up and down the Paseo de la Castellana providing quick access to and from central Madrid.

Certainly, you are unlikely to miss the Cuatro Torres Business Area, as it has some of the tallest skyscrapers in Spain – four of them, all close together.  In fact, one of them, the Torre Caja Madrid (designed by Lord Foster) stands 250 m (820 ft) high, has 45 floors and is the tallest building in Spain.

ENTRANCE TO THE UK EMBASSY IN MADRID

The Torre Espacio, which houses the British Embassy in Madrid, is a little smaller than the Torre Caja and reaches 230m high and comprises 57 floors, with 6 floors below ground.  It has 56,250 m2 of space, 27 lifts and is a rather wonderful example of Modernist architecture, as you can see from the images here.

Designed by American architect Henry N. Cobb of Pei Cobb Freed the Torre Espacio has been described as featuring ‘cosine curves on two sides, forming a transition between its square base and elliptical roof plan’.  I think this means that the building has a curved vertical structure – which is certainly very attractive and strikingly graceful.  Indeed, the Cuatro Torres undoubtedly show Spain at its best when it comes to adventurous and exciting modern architecture.

You will be relieved to know that the British Embassy does not take up all 57 floors of the Torre Espacio and that the Embassy has only four floors, reached after some very effective (but polite) security checks, as soon as the building is entered.  My own experience of the Embassy (to renew my passport) was that the staff were also unfailingly polite and efficient, whilst working within fine surroundings dominated by (as you can imagine) amazing views!

Incidentally, in case you are interested, evidently the tallest structure in Spain remains the Torreta de Guardamar, which would dwarf either the Torre Espacio or the Torre Caja Madrid.  The Torreta de Guardamar is 370 m high, a radio mast (designed to communicate with submarines) and was built in 1962 by the Americans.  I suspect that it will also remain the tallest structure in Spain for a long time to come.

THE TORRE CAJA MADRID IS THE HIGHEST BUILDING IN SPAIN

Of course, it is irresistible not to answer the obvious question of: what is the tallest building in the world!

Well, at present, it seems that the tallest building in the world is the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, which reaches up to a mind boggling height of 828 m (2,717 ft) – some 626m higher than the British Embassy in Spain.  Astonishing, and perhaps that is where the British Embassy in Dubai will go – so that it measures up to its Spanish sister!

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

RELEVANT ARTICLES ABOUT THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN MADRID

British Embassy in Madrid

The Torre Espacio

THE WRITER ENJOYING PERFECT CONDITIONS AT BELLUS

One of the joys of living in Spain for me is my ability to rock climb throughout the year – something that was extremely difficult in the UK, where the weather made almost every trip out a feat of endurance!  This is far from the case when you are climbing on the Costa Blanca when, even in the middle of winter, you can revel in conditions that would match the finest experienced on a British summer’s day.

In fact, if you are thinking about holidays in Spain then you could do a lot worse than take them during the winter months.  Of course, no-one can guarantee fine weather and the Costa Blanca (like anywhere along Mediterranean Spain) can become overcast and grey.  But, on the whole, this rarely lasts long and is frequently followed by bright blue skies and the real warmth of the sun.  The latter is a real treat and, for a rock climber, a blessing – as it quickly dries off rock faces that only the day before were streaming wet.

I mention all of this because the past week here has been outstanding with day time temperatures (in the sun) reaching well into 20+ degrees Celsius, enabling a friend and myself to take full advantage of rock climbing on the Costa Blanca and its almost limitless crags.  In fact, as you can see from the images here, we have been rock climbing in Tee shirts and shorts.  Wonderful!

Certainly, climbing on the Costa Blanca is superb.  The rock is excellent and extremely well protected with generally very well maintained bolts.  Meanwhile, there are routes to suit all levels from 4+ to 8 (and above), with the routes varying from short single pitches to 40m pitches and multi-pitch climbs up some ‘serious’ mountains.

BILL HANNAH APPROACHING A BIG ROOF

The good news is that most Spanish climbing clubs are very energetic and are constantly ‘opening up’ new crags – so much so that it is sometimes difficult to keep up with what is available.  Often this is only possible through the ‘jungle drums’ of meeting up with other Spanish climbers who are enthusing about somewhere new!

Gandia, ideal for access to excellent rock climbing along the northern Costa Blanca

Recently, my climbing partner (the redoubtable Bill Hannah) and I came across a new crag near Bellus (the crag is opposite opposite Aventador) which just shows how committed some clubs are about extending climbing on the Costa Blanca.  As importantly, many of the clubs, to their credit, are not obsessed by only putting up really hard routes and, often, take considerable care to ensure that a crag (where possible) has a full range of grades.

This is true of the new Bellus crag (as yet unnamed, to the best of my knowledge!) which has 65(!) new routes that were put up a couple of months ago.   Very remarkably, the crag has a terrific selection of routes (perhaps 30+) in the 4+/5/5+ range, making it ideal for the lower range climber – with a decent selection of 6/6a+ routes, and a few 7s for those wanting a bit more of a challenge.

A VIEW FROM THE TOP OF XERESA 4 PITCH 6A+

In fact, the Bellus area (close to Genoves) is becoming a fantastic area for climbing on the Costa Blanca as there are now some 6 crags within half an hour of each other, with some stunning climbing available from ‘slab’ climbing through to ‘steep’ routes and ‘intricate’ vertical pitches.  All are newly protected and benefit from being within a lovely part of the Valencian countryside – notable for having a fully flowing river passing through the valley bottom (great for summer swims!).  Perhaps as importantly, nearby are a couple of very welcome bars for that after climb ‘pick me up’!

So, whether you are ‘into’ climbing or just winter sun – you can do a lot worse than taking your holidays in Spain during the winter months.  Just walking around with the warmth of the sun on your back can be a tremendous elixir – made truly wonderful if you are also doing a sport that you love.

Incidentally, if you are a rock climber and looking for somewhere to stay then have a look at the Penya Roja Climbing Lodge  This is a magnificent B+B, very close to the daunting and famous Penya Roja Marxuquera crag (ideally for 6b – 7b climbers) near Gandia, on the Costa Blanca.  The owners are close friends of mine and wonderful hosts…

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

FURTHER INFORMATION ABOUT HOLIDAYS IN SPAIN

10 Things not to forget when you go on your Spanish holiday

Beach holidays in Spain – 10 vital factors

10 essential factors that make for a great beach in Spain

Beach apartments in Spain – 10 vital factors

Holiday villas in Spain – 10 things to look for

Make the best of your summer holidays in Spain

Holidays in Spain – the facts

Beach holidays in Spain, the Spanish love them!

'THE SPANISH TEMPER' IS A MUST-READ FOR ANYONE INTERESTED IN SPAIN

As an Anglo-Spaniard with a long history of living and working in Spain on and off over the last 40 years, I was keen to read this recently re-published book of Pritchett’s views and opinions about Spain and its people based on the 4 years he spent in Spain in the 1920s and subsequent visits in the 1940s and 50s.

Pritchett follows in the footsteps of other foreign travellers, such as Borrow, Ford, Maugham, Sanford Marden and his contemporaries Norman Lewis and Gerald Brenan, who have also reflected on the nature of the Spanish character arising from their own experiences of travelling and living in Spain.

The difference is that Pritchett’s primary focus is on the Spanish character and what factors have shaped and formed it, whereas for the aforementioned writers their observations on the Spanish character were mainly secondary to describing their personal experiences in Spain.  The exception being Gerald Brenan, who’s “The Spanish Labyrinth” Pritchett himself acknowledges as being a seminal work on the social and political background to the Spanish Civil War and which covers in some detail the agrarian and landowning situation in Spain, which in turn is crucial to understanding the underlying causes of the war.

The description provided with The Spanish Temper is essentially as follows: Pritchett’s meditative work on Spain is comprised of a string of sketches, woven around the author’s musings on the Spanish character. Pritchett is well placed to deliver such a report, and his resulting narrative is both well informed and delightfully written.

Well, what I can say is that the description does not come close to doing this book justice.  In The Spanish Temper Pritchitt takes the reader on a tour through most of Spain, from the Basque country through Castile, Andalusia, the Levante and Catalonia.  He discusses the characteristics of each region in terms of political, economic and cultural history, as well as its geography, and how this has impacted on the character of the people living in these regions.

Not only is it well written but, for someone who only spent 4 years living in Spain 80 years ago, his insightful and astute observations demonstrate a deep knowledge and understanding of Spanish social, political and cultural history from art and literature to Franco to flamenco and bullfighting and, more importantly, a tremendous insight into the Spanish character and what underpins it.  He also shows his knowledge of leading Spanish intellectuals and writers, such as Ramiro de Maeztu, Ganivet, Benavente, Unamuno, Perez Galdos, Maranon, etc.

In short, Pritchett’s analysis (and understanding) of the Spanish character, both the good and the bad, mirrors observations made by many other foreigners living and travelling in Spain but is far more in-depth and is probably the most intellectually rigorous and robust examination I have come across.  If I had to find fault with the book it would be Pritchett’s tendency to “go off track” occasionally and to pontificate.  For example, in my opinion he spends too long discussing the motivations behind, and impact of, the two key Spanish “international” books, Don Quixote and Don Juan but the sections dealing with flamenco and bullfighting are very instructive.

Based on my own knowledge and experience of Spain and its people, some of his analysis into, and observations of, Spanish life and the people’s character remain as valid today as they were then.  For example, the Spaniards love of noise, music, dance and fiestas; “their capacity for producing the perfect blueprint which is never put into operation”; that, on the whole, Spaniards are not an “imaginative or innovative people” are all relevant even today, albeit not so prevalent.

He also observes that corrupt town clerks were making fortunes from corruption, which certainly rings true today, as does “Spain is full of anxious, idle lawyers…” – at least in certain parts of the country!  Of course, their kindness, generosity and hardworking ethos are also mentioned, but to be honest, only in passing.

On the other hand, he cites the Spaniard’s hatred of progress and Europeanisation at all levels of society (except in Catalonia) and “so much of Spanish life is locked up or emotionally fixed in the Middle Ages”.  Today, nothing could be further from the truth and these comments reflect the fact that this book was written in the 1950s and was based on hundreds of years of no, or very minimal, economic, social and political progress.  So, at the time of its writing, and perhaps for a number of years afterwards, Spanish Temper represented, in my opinion, an accurate and incisive analysis of the Spanish character.

However, Spain’s emergence from dictatorship into democracy and joining the EU resulted in changes to some of the underlying factors which had helped form the Spanish character over the past 300+ years.  For example, the ending of its isolation from much of Europe, improved communications (internal and external), higher standards of living, better education, universal suffrage, etc. have clearly led to changes in the way the Spanish “think” and act.

This is turn, appears to have resulted in a change from what some academics term a “shareholders” society, where there is a small group of haves who are in control (management) and a large group of have nots with little real say in how the “company” is run (the shareholders), to a “stakeholders” society which is more democratic, meritocratic, progressive and inclusive.

However, the permanence of this change is being questioned given what has been occurring in Spain over the last few years, e.g. an unsustainable economic boom, driven by largely external factors such as the euro and low interest rates; over reliance on construction/property sector for the generation of wealth; large scale political corruption; subsequent bust with over 20% unemployment, uncompetitive/productive industry; poor education system; poorly managed banking sector, etc., and raises the question of whether Spain, its people and its society will revert to many of the characteristics and traits so accurately described by Pritchett (and those before him).

This is therefore a must read book for anyone with more than a passing interest in the Spanish character and what has helped form and shape it but who also has an eye on how the present crisis, in Spain and Europe, may impact on it in the future.

Spanish Temper is just one of many superb books about Spain that can be bought from the specialist on-line bookstore Books4Spain

Rod Younger – Books4 Spain for Culture Spain

PABLO PICASSO

Spain is blessed with numerous cities and towns that are veritable treasure chests of cultural gems for the discerning heritage hunter, yet few people would automatically think of Malaga.

Indeed, Malaga is best known for being the ‘gateway’ to the Costa Del Sol and its legendary beaches, resorts, late night bars and clubs. As a consequence, few people give Malaga a second glance.

However, those who do take time to stop and look around Malaga will find a busy city with numerous attractions to boast of making flights to Malaga an appealing prospect. In fact, the culture of Malaga more than justifies a visit as there is lots to see – not least because Pablo Picasso was born in Malaga and the city is preparing itself to be in the running for Europe’s Cultural Capital 2016.

Pablo Picasso

When in Malaga, of course, it is with Pablo Picasso that many tourists inevitably begin, with the Pablo Ruiz Picasso Museum an obvious place to start. This has been recently renovated to better showcase his works and artefacts from his past.

Although there are many Picasso museums to be found around the world, few can compete with the one in Malaga. Opened in 2003, the Pablo Ruiz Picasso Museum is based in the Buenavista Palace, which was originally built in the Sixteenth Century and has been restored to house the collection, comprised of items provided by Picasso’s family. This gives this museum a wholly unique appeal and the building is as beautiful as Pablo Picasso’s works – although not quite as abstract!

It is not just the museum where Picasso fans can get their fill of art and history because holidaymakers can also visit his house. This now doubles up as a museum with the museum located on the first floor of the house, which boasts 3,500 works of art by around 200 artists, compiled thanks to donations by the Picasso family heirs.

Eye Opening Exhibitions

Of course, there is more to Malaga’s cultural scene than just Picasso!

Malaga has the Centre of Contemporary Arts and the very interesting national Museum of Airports and Air Transport. The latter opened in 1997 and is the only one of its kind in Spain – with few to rival it in the world.

In fact, the national Museum of Airports and Air Transport has a vast collection, which includes some 4,000 items and many interesting exhibitions. In fact, since February 2009, the Terminal used by passengers to Malaga from 1948 to 1968 has been part of the Museum and is quite an attraction for visitors on holiday in Spain.

Ancient Buildings and Artefacts

Malaga also has many interesting buildings to see, such as the Cathedral of Malaga. This was built between 1528 and 1782, is a Renaissance inspired building and dominates the Malaga horizon. It is located inside the limits of the old Arab fortifications and complements the nearby Alcazaba and the Castle of Gibralfaro.

The Castle of Gibralfaro sits proudly within a sea of trees overlooking the houses below. It was built in the 1300s but retains much of its original design and beauty.

Finally there is the ancient Roman Theatre – one of the most recent discoveries in Malaga. This vast, former auditorium was only found in 1951 but much of its original grandeur has survived, providing visitors with a feel for what live entertainment used to be like in antiquity.

Lots to Discover

With its wealth of cultural attractions, Malaga should stand a good chance of becoming European Capital of Culture in 2016. In the meantime, you really should think of it as being more than just a ‘gateway’ to other places in Spain and consider spending a few days there – even if your intention is to continue on to other Costa del Sol ‘hotspots’!

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

MIJAS

Mijas is one of the most famous traditional “white” villages in Spain and one of the largest municipalities in the Malaga province of Andalucia. The municipality is generally divided into two areas – Mijas pueblo, the capital set high up in the hills and the coastal area of Mijas Costa, which consists of the residential areas of Las Lagunas, Riviera del Sol, La Cala de Mijas and Calahonda.

Mijas was predominately a string of quiet fishing villages which were transformed by the arrival of national and international tourism from the 1960s onwards. The current population of Mijas is over 75,000 people, of which at least 40% are foreign residents, with British being the main nationality represented.

The climate of Mijas, due to the proximity of the sea, conditions mild temperatures, with average year round temperatures of 18ºC. Rainfall is below 600ml per year and usually occurs between November and January allowing the region to boast, on average, over 300 days of sunshine a year.

MIAJS PUEBLO IS FULL OF CAFES AND BARS

Situated only 30km from Malaga airport, Mijas has developed into a popular international tourist destination and features many championship level golf courses including the largest golf resort in Spain, La Cala Golf Resort. Although associated prominently with golf in Spain, Mijas also has several equestrian schools and a large hippodrome, which stages many international horse racing meets throughout the year. Certainly, horse racing in Mijas is very popular during the summer months when races are held during the warm evenings. Other facilities in Mijas include the popular water park, Parque Acuatico Mijas that opens during the summer months and a large shopping and leisure center, Parque Miramar, opened in 2004 and home to a 12 screen cinema.

With over 12km of coast, Mijas has many well-kept, clean sandy coves and beaches. Two of its beaches have been awarded Blue Flags: Playa La Cala and Playa La Luna. Many beaches in Mijas have beach bars and restaurants (chiringuitos) serving fresh seafood and barbequed sardines (espetos), which Mijas is also famous for. Lifeguards are posted on the main beach in La Cala de Mijas and there are also free exercise facilities available and showers to use. Although the majority of Mijas beaches are easily accessible, some are nicely hidden and have a more natural feel to them. One such hidden beach is situated in Calahonda, which is also home to a designated EU site of community interest with over 1,000 species of marine life and 400 plant species. Unlike many other popular tourists’ areas, Mijas has mainly resisted the development of beach-side hotels along its coastal region, striving instead to protect its beaches. Many hotels in Mijas are closely linked to golfing – while offering easy access to the beach areas.

MIJAS HAS SUPERB BEACHES - IDEAL FOR THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS

Culturally, Mijas retains many traditional aspects of Andalucian culture. Bullfights in Mijas still take place in Mijas pueblo and the bullring is notable for being oval shaped. Flamenco music is also very prominent with many performances taking place throughout the year as part of both local celebrations and shows for visiting tourists during the summer months. Mijas pueblo is synonymous with its Donkey “burro” taxis which take visitors around the village. Horse carriages are also available for groups – both being very popular all year round.

Due to the high amount of available natural light and relaxed atmosphere, Mijas is very popular with international artists, with many choosing to make it their home and exhibiting their work in the numerous art galleries throughout the area.

SARDINE BARBEQUE IN MIJAS - DELICIOUS!

During the summer, Mijas pueblo hosts its annual International Blues Festival with top international blues artists invited to perform in the main plaza of Mijas and the beautiful auditorium overlooking the coast. Also held in the town is an International Feria, which showcases the large variety of nationalities living in the municipality. Each nationality offers different national dishes, specialities and drinks for visitors to try. Several expat communities present examples of their cultures with presentations, music and dance from their respective countries. All this adds to the multi-cultural feeling of Mijas.

MIJAS PUEBLO IS DELIGHTFUL

The public transport system in Mijas is a little sporadic with no direct bus route to either Malaga or Marbella from Mijas pueblo although there are bus and train connections available in Fuengirola to these cities. Large scale development during the boom years have resulted in many illegal buildings – one of the problems the new local government are trying to currently deal with. The municipality is striving to attract tourists to the area during the economic downturn – although many overseas visitors return annually due to the natural beauty of Mijas.

 Written by David Kennedy of Mijas Guide for Culture Spain

KING JUAN CARLOS (Carlos Alvarez Getty Images)

A few weeks ago I wrote about corruption in Spain – and within days the Spanish news had headlines about the King of Spain’s son in law (the Duke of Palma) being summoned to appear before a judge to answer questions relating to allegations of corruption.  These concern the misuse of public funds given to a foundation that the Duke of Palma ran and were revealed during a larger investigation into corruption in Mallorca called the Palma Arena case.  The latter case had already led to the toppling of the conservative party (PP) President of the Baleares Government and his Environment Minister, Jaume Matas.

Soon after (and completely unrelated), it was announced that José Blanco, Spain’s public works minister (under the recent Zapatero socialist government), was being investigated for corruption.  Evidently, he is suspected of taking bribes for providing public subsidies.

Meanwhile, and on-going, is the trial of Francisco Camps.  The latter was the conservative (PP) party’s Premier of the Valencian Region, until forced to stand down in 2011, accused of accepting suits for political favours (the Gurtel corruption case).

Yet again, it seems that endemic corruption runs through every part of Spain and reaches to the very highest levels of society, irrespective of political party or position.  This is deeply damaging to Spain and the last thing the country needs whilst in the midst of an economic crisis, requiring the Spanish population to have faith in its institutions and the decisions taken on its behalf – particularly when those decisions are imposing austerity and hard times.

Certainly, the allegations against the King’s son in law, the Duke of Palma, are damaging because they touch upon the integrity of Spain’s Royal family.  This will not be welcomed by King Juan Carlos, who has a reputation for probity and is still highly regarded by most Spaniards for his actions after the death of General Franco and during the Tejero crisis.

In a country that is ‘naturally’ republican the monarchy needs all the support it can get and the Duke of Palma (whether proven innocent or guilty) will have certainly harmed the monarchy.

Indeed, it is hard not to believe that the King of Spain has not been deeply embarrassed.  Not only has he removed the Duke of Palma from all royal duties but the King has felt compelled to reveal the finances of the Spanish royal household.   These state that the total budget for the royal family is 8.4 m Euros (there is a staff of some 500 people).

Evidently, the King of Spain is paid 292,752 Euros a year, of which 140, 519 Euros is salary (taxable at 40%), with the remainder expenses.  Meanwhile Crown Prince Felipe is paid 146,376 Euros pa with Queen Sofia and the three princesses sharing 375,000 Euros between them.

One can only imagine how furious King Juan Carlos must be at having to reveal the finances of the Spanish royal household – but he must be given credit for doing so.   He has said this is to provide ‘transparency in modern times’, although the timing of the announcement, coming as the Duke of Palma is investigated, indicates that the opening up of the finances of the Spanish royal household to the public was undertaken as ‘damage control’.

However, what cannot be denied is the importance of the king of Spain being seen to be transparent and totally opposed to corruption in Spain.  As the moral ‘head’ of the country he needs to provide an example to the rest of the country and to try to change the culture of Spain relating to corruption, which is all too often seen as acceptable here (and a perquisite of anyone in power).

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

FURTHER RELEVANT ARTICLES

Corruption in Spain – still a problem.

All the King’s men – Franco, the Tejero crisis and King Juan Carlos

MONDUVER MOUNTAIN (BACKGROUND) SURROUNDED BY RUGGED COUNTRYSIDE

Have you heard of skyrunning (and I have not misspelt the word!)?

Well, if you have not, then you are probably not alone – and it is certainly a sport that I had never heard about, until it was drawn to my attention by Mark van Jaarsveld, the ever resourceful techie behind Culture Spain.  As he pointed out to me, Spain has produced one of the greatest skyrunners in the world, Kílian Jornet Burgada, who has won the world title an amazing three times (2007/8/9)

Skyrunning, by anyone’s standards, is an extreme sport and only for the very fittest of runners and is all about running in mountains above 2,000 m, where the incline exceeds 30% – but not to the point where the route becomes an actual rock climb.

There are many different types of sky running including sky marathons and even sky ultra-marathons (much longer than a conventional marathon).  Alongside these are races up skyscrapers and, gaining in popularity, steep, 1 km long, vertical marathons.  The latter, as you can imagine are very challenging as the short distance means that the runners are pretty much sprinting the whole way, despite an often completely sustained 1,000m incline.

However, the really tough running is in the thin air above 2,000 m, along rough tracks and very steep ground.  This is dauntingly difficult and made more so by frequent poor weather conditions!

Kílian Jornet Burgada has certainly taken the skyrunning world by storm.  From Catalonia, he is also a ski mountaineering champion and one of Spain’s elite sportsmen.  The good news is that he is coming to Gandia (Valencia Province) for the eleventh Vertical Kilometre Race of Gandia on the 15^th January 2012.  This is a dauntingly hard race that starts in Gandia (at sea level) and then climbs remorselessly up to the top of Monduver Mountain, which is 978m in height.

14 x 8,000m mountains and a Spaniard on top of the world

The Gandia race is 11.8 kms long and passes beside my own house, which is just before the course rises very steeply, as it starts to wind its way up Monduver.  I have walked up the mountain many times and dread to think what it must be like to sprint up it – particularly having already run 10 kms from Gandia!

It will be interesting to see what Kílian Jornet Burgada makes of the Gandia Vertical Kilometre Race!  Of course, starting from sea level should make life easier for him than running above 2,000 m and he must be the favourite to win – we shall see…

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

GREATER FLAMINGOES, A RESIDENT BIRD OF SPAIN AND SURELY ONE OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR

A couple of days ago, I had a wonderful day out bird watching in Valencia – something that none of my family thought I would do (let alone enjoy the experience).

Well, it was a revelation!

Probably like most women, I tend to get caught in the house during the Christmas period, barely able to escape from the constant round of meals, entertaining and tidying up.  And then, of course, there are the children to keep happy and my husband occupied (not that he always appreciates it!).  It all means that I end up having little time to myself to relax.

However, to my amazement, this year my husband bought me a day out with Nature Trails Spain, who run bird watching tours in Valencia!

A LONE CORMORANT BEFORE A WEATHER FRONT CAME IN BRINGING DOZENS MORE.

Well, you can imagine my surprise at receiving a bird watching tour as a present, particularly as I know next to nothing about birds.  That is not say that I do not like the countryside nor that I have no interest in wildlife, both of which I do.  However, I rarely know what I am looking at, why it is unusual and what the creature I am looking at does – making any sustained interest in local wildlife in Spain frustrating and a touch pointless.  Certainly, my husband is of no use at all, as he cannot tell the difference between a bat and a budgerigar and considers walking anywhere an insult to the inventor of the combustion engine!

In any event, with a small party, we set off last Tuesday with Dave Warrington from Nature Trails Spain as our guide.  Dave is an expert birder (I think that is the right term!) and very soon displayed an astonishing knowledge about the bird-life of Valencia and where best to go at different times of the year to see a dazzling variety of birds in Spain in their natural or migratory habitats.

Over a coffee, just before we set off, Dave described to us what we were likely to see and why – whilst warning us to keep a sharp look out for anything we considered unusual.  He then issued us with binoculars and we set off on a walk around the marshlands of northern Valencia – with me wrapped up like the proverbial Michelin man (which I was to regret later as, the day became surprisingly warm).

The plan was to take a gentle 7 km walk around the Valencian marshlands along routes that Dave clearly knew intimately, whilst visiting various hides and viewing platforms.  We would stop at these and along the way, as we spotted birds of interest.  To help us see the birds better, Dave had a large telescope and tripod, which was to prove very useful during the course of the day.

Bird watching in Spain – the stunning diversity of Valencia

In fact, I was really surprised at the number of different birds that we saw right from the start of the walk.  Moving slowly and carefully, Dave was scrupulous about not just pointing out individual birds but also describing what they were, what they were doing and their particular characteristics.  Each species we saw started to have a real personality of its own beyond simply being pretty or a curiosity.

THE VALENCIAN COASTAL WETLANDS HOLD A VAST ARRAY OF BIRD SPECIES THROUGHOUT THE YEAR

One of the joys of the walk was seeing a flight of Flamingoes.  These were beautiful and took on a gorgeous pink glow as their wings caught the sun.  Really tremendous!

Later on we saw a Purple Gallinule (huge red feet!), which Dave told us was a rare sight.  This was complemented by coming within almost touching distance of a beautiful Kestrel, which seemed not to care at all about our presence.  Meanwhile, for long periods of the day, a magnificent Booted Eagle circled overhead, thankfully not disturbing one of my favourite birds, the Hoopoe (which eats just about anything, including Procession Caterpillars, which I hate!).

THE WRITER WITH DAVE WARRINGTON - WATCHING A KESTREL!

In all, we saw a total of 33 different species during our bird watching tour in Valencia, which Dave considers a reasonably good number for this time of year.  Certainly, I was astonished that so many could be seen in one day and delighted by a really lovely, relaxing day out within beautiful countryside.  This was enhanced by Dave who was wonderfully good humoured and tolerant, whilst providing a day that ended with a really pleasant sense of achievement.  Lovely!

I would never have thought that I would say this but my day out with Dave, bird watching in Valencia, has sparked an interest that I shall really enjoy building upon (I have just bought a book about birds!).  I may even try to persuade my husband to accompany me next time – actually maybe not!  There is quite a lot to be said for having a selfish day out, doing something completely different…

Finally, if you want to go out with Dave on a bird watching tour then he can be found at Valencia birding or Nature Trails Spain or you can e-mail him directly at: NatureTrailSpain@gmail.com  Have a great time – and I may see you there!

Lindsay Snelling – Culture Spain

SPAIN AT ITS BEST - PROVIDING THE PERFECT HOLIDAY BEACHES

In January 2002 the Euro became the currency of Spain, replacing the Peseta (which had been introduced in 1869) as the nation’s currency.  This set in motion two matters, both of which had a profound effect upon the cost of living in Spain.

One of the first effects of the demise of the Euro was an explosion of Spanish property sales, as Pesetas were used to buy property – which could then be sold and changed into Euros.  Spain has always had a huge ‘black’ (sumergida) economy and many Spaniards had to change their unbanked money and launder it, which was also, evidently, of considerable importance to organised crime syndicates.

The consequence of the introduction of the Euro into Spain was therefore a massive amount of money pouring into the Spanish economy, which ended up fuelling an artificial property boom.  This, in turn, increased the prices of Spanish property, whilst giving the impression that there was an unlimited demand for housing – irrespective of its logic, quality or location.  Indeed, it is fair to say that the catastrophic property boom in Spain was almost certainly, initially, due to the introduction of the Euro (alongside acute and sustained economic mismanagement by the Spanish government of the time).

The second consequence of the introduction of the Euro into Spain was a rapid increase in the cost of living in Spain.  This was an experience shared by many countries that also saw their basic costs rise enormously (and unaccountably) as they introduced the Euro.

In the case of Spain, the rise in living costs has been very considerable over the past ten years.  Indeed, according to a recent article, the cost of living in Spain, during the past ten years, has increased by 31%.  This, of course, would not be a major problem, if it had been followed by the same, or similar, increase in wages in Spain.  However, this has been far from the case and wages in Spain have only increased over the past ten years by a paltry 13%.

The cost of living in Spain, the lethal difference between 1981 – 2011

Nonetheless, it is fair to say that the disparity between living costs in Spain and salaries was, for a long time, masked by the profits made during the frenzy of the long Spanish property boom, as housing was (almost universally) being profitably bought and sold (often off-plan).  This and the ‘rise’ in general housing values meant that people ‘felt’ wealthier which, in turn, encouraged them to borrow (and spend) more – mimicking the town halls, regions and national government.

That said, statistics on the Spanish economy are rarely completely reliable, as Spain’s ‘black’ economy has continued to be substantial, despite the introduction of the Euro in Spain.  This means that, whilst the statistics for the rise in the cost of living are probably right, the 13% figure for the rise in salaries in Spain, since 2002, may not be the full truth.  In fact, notoriously, some people receive part of their salaries in cash and many businesses do not fully declare their income.

Of course, irrespective of the past, the cost of living for the Spanish has now become a major concern.  The collapse of the Spanish property market has meant that property values have returned to those last seen around 2004, with many Spaniards holding onto mortgages that they never intended having long term.  To make matters worse, the massive unemployment rate in Spain (around 22%) has meant that salary increases are unlikely, given that there is more supply than demand amongst a population that is already over-qualified for the jobs that exist within the Spanish economy.

Cost of living in Spain for expatriates

The situation for expatriates in Spain is rather more complicated, not least for the British who, ten years ago, enjoyed all the benefits of an incredibly strong currency.  Sterling peaked at around 1.60 to the Euro and made everything in Spain appear absurdly cheap, whether property or general living expenses.  The strength of Sterling (sadly!) did not last and eventually dropped to almost parity, making Spain seem greatly more expensive than it had been only a few years before.  This had major implications for any Britons living in Spain on an income derived from the UK, although the recent rise in Sterling has alleviated matters considerably.

Spain, the Euro and the future of Spanish property

In reality, most expatriates from Northern Europe and the US find Spain good value now and the overall costs of living in Spain cheaper than in their own countries.  Spanish property is finally yielding a value for money that it had lost by 2006/7 and there are some excellent bargain properties within Spain, within a marketplace that has an excessive number of properties for sale (possibly 3 million!).

Meanwhile, a general shopping cart of products from a supermarket is, more or less, the same as in the UK.  Clothes are generally as, or more, expensive than in the UK, white goods surprisingly costly and the employing of people (and setting up of a company) far from cheap.

However, rates on a property (IBI) are much cheaper than in Britain and eating and drinking out very economical.  This is also true for private schooling and car tax.

In reality, the overall cost of living in Spain is cheaper than for Northern Europe partly, perhaps, because of the al fresco nature of life in Spain, which means that a much better quality of living can be maintained for less money spent day to day.  It is also true to say that the modern infrastructure of Spain (transport, roads, medical care etc.) is very good and a match for most North European countries.

So, as a Spaniard in Spain – life is expensive and many Spaniards now feel that they are ‘between a rock and a hard place’ within an economy that is still in very deep, long term trouble.  However, for expatriates on a secure income, Spain can provide a fine quality of life with a cost of living that is, overall, cheaper than for Northern Europe.

Nick Snelling – Culture Spain

FURTHER RELEVANT ARTICLES ON THE COST OF LIVING IN SPAIN

Working in Spain – the over-qualification problem

The cost of living in Spain, the lethal difference between 1981 – 2011

The Introduction of the Euro and Spanish living costs

Bargain properties in Spain

Spain, the Euro and the future of Spanish property